Alan & Sandra’s Incredible Cross Country Adventure
South Dakota - Black Hills, Badlands, and - I 90 Corridor
Black Hills
Overview – We were itching to do some challenging hikes, and originally planned on trekking in the Atlas Mountains of Morocco in September. Because of time constraints, we later changed our destination to the Black Hills in late August. As you may have heard in the news, we were fortunate to have changed our itinerary. The Black Hills had everything we were looking for, from jagged mountain peaks to deep gulches. Along with stunning rock formations, open grasslands, tumbling streams, and deep blue lakes, the Black Hills is a fabulous playground for outdoor enthusiasts. Though the outdoor activities are one of the main reasons people visit the Black Hills there are many more things to do here besides just hiking. That is why the area is visited by 3.6 million tourists a year. We spent nine days exploring the region, and that was just about the right amount of time we needed to see and do everything we wanted.
Geography – The Black Hills is an isolated mountain range reaching an elevation of 7,244 feet that is surrounded by a sea of high-prairie grassland. This region sits in four counties and covers an area of 7,000 square miles with 27% of this land comprising national and state parklands.
Demographics – The Black Hills is a sparsely populated region with a total population of 229,000. The only city in the area is Rapid City with a metro population of 156,000.
Northern Black Hills
Sturgis – For 10-days every August this town of 7,000 becomes the center of the motorcycle universe when 500,000 bikers come to visit. The Sturgis Motorcycle Rally offers loads of activities such as big musical headliners, motorcycle stunt shows, bike exhibits, beard & mustache competitions, and the Tuesday Tattoo contest. There is even a small motorcycle museum jam-packed with all sorts of bikes, from vintage and rare models to colorfully painted custom bikes that could be considered pieces of art, and loads of biker memorabilia.
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Deadwood – Deadwood was once one of the wealthiest cities in South Dakota. This is evident from the many beautiful buildings that remain from that period. Deadwood experienced its heyday in the 1870s when gold deposits were discovered in the area. During this period the town grew to 16,000, with old west figures such as Wyatt Earp, Calamity Jane, and Wild Bill Hickok calling Deadwood home. Besides gold mining, the other major industries were taverns, opium dens, gambling houses, and brothels. No wonder Deadwood was labeled the “wickedest city on earth” Today, with a population of only 1,200, Deadwood is a little tamer with their major source of employment now being the tourist industry. But there still are plenty of taverns and gambling houses left to enjoy. And they still have gunfights, but they are now reenactments for the tourists. The Adam's Museum offers a great historical background to the area, and the Adam's House and Mount Moriah Cemetery complete the picture of the quirky town.
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Lead – Lead started out as a company town for the Homestead Gold Mine owned by William Randolph Hearst’s father. The Hearsts were very benevolent to their workers and Lead was considered a good place to live. The vast mine network excavated below the city is the largest and deepest in North America, reaching a depth of 8,000 feet. During the mine’s lifetime the Hearsts extracted 1,240,000 kilograms of gold. Today’s price for a kilogram of gold is $61,900. The gold eventually panned out, and the mine is now being used by the Sanford Underground Research Facility, were an army of scientist conduct experiments on neutrinos, dark matter, and other nuclear physics topics.
Spearfish Canyon Scenic Byway – This winding 22-mile roadway, considered the most beautiful drive in the northern portion of the Black Hills, took us past towering limestone cliffs, believed to be older than the Grand Canyon, waterfalls, and abundant wildlife. This area is home to white-tail deer, mule deer, mountain goats, and bobcats.
Devil’s Bathtub Trail (1.6 miles – 190 feet elevation) – This was a pretty hike with lots of water crossings leading to a lovely waterhole and cascade. None of the river crossings had bridges. Being that I am such a klutz, instead of trying to balance myself on the rocks like everyone else, I just ran through as fast as I could. For the first few crossings I remained dry, but by the end of the hike my waterproof boots were totally soaked. But it was a hot day, so I did not care.
Custer Peak Trail (2.6 miles – 410 feet elevation) – The trail is basically af dirt road that spirals around Custer Peak until converting to a foot trail just before it reaches an observation tower at the top. The trail was not very interesting, but the views from the top were great.
Central Black Hills
Rapid City – We chose Rapid City to be our base camp for the entire trip. This meant having to do a lot of driving. Most of our outings were 30 to 70 minutes one way. It might have made more sense having a separate southern and northern base camp in perhaps Custer and Deadwood. However, the selection of lodgings, restaurants, and amenities was far greater in Rapid City than elsewhere in the Black Hills. Rapid City had an interesting downtown to explore with statues of US presidents on every corner. The last night of our visit we stumbled upon a street festival with great music.
Chapel in the Hills (Rapid City) – The chapel built in 1969, is an exact reproduction of the Borgund Stavkirke. which is considered to be the most completely preserved stave church still standing in Norway. The site also includes a Norwegian farmer’s 1800s log cabin turned into a museum.
Reptile Gardens (Rapid City) – Housing hundreds of species of reptiles, the Gardens claim to be the world’s largest reptile zoo. We especially enjoyed the alligator/crocodile and the snake shows, which were very educational and entertaining. The Gardens also have a tortoise yard with three giant tortoises that roam the area freely. While most of the attractions are outdoors, many of the more interesting exhibits can be found inside their SkyDome.
Buzzards Roost Trail (2.8 miles – 470 feet elevation) – This hike was a challenge because we came across a few forks along the trail without any signs. Fortunately, we chose the correct path every time and finally ended up on a rock cropping with fantastic views.
Little Elk Creek Trail (5.0 miles – 580 feet elevation) – The trail at times hugs a beautiful, lush creek, and at other times follows the shadeless bluff above it. It was a day of nearly 100 degrees and we were thinking of turning back until I noticed through the trees below a lovely watering hole with a cascade and a barely visible path leading down to it. Even though it was such a hot day, the water was ice cold. I was only able to go into the water up to my waist for maybe 30 seconds. Sandra was even less daring. But it was still absolutely wonderful.
Southern Black Hills
Mount Rushmore National Memorial – Mt. Rushmore is by far the most popular tourist destination in the Black Hills. It took nearly 400 craftsmen fourteen years to complete the project. Considering that most of these guys were handling dynamite and large power tools while dangling on scaffolding over the side of the mountain, it’s a miracle that none of them died. The four 60 feet tall heads can be seen from the Grand View Terrace, or if you do not mind climbing 422 stairs, you can get more up close and personal with the sculpture by hiking the Presidential Trail. With an estimated life span of seven million years, no matter how badly we screw up the planet, Mount Rushmore will endure.
Crazy Horse Memorial – Work on the sculpture of Crazy Horse, a Sioux Indian Chief, began by Korczak Ziolkowski in 1948 and has been continued by his descendants. If ever completed, the 563-foot-tall monument will be the largest sculpture in the world. When I first visited Crazy Horse around 1985 you could barely make out the shape of the warrior sitting on top of his horse. Fast forward to our visit in 2001 and the only part of the sculpture that was finished was the face, which could only be seen from the visitor’s center a full three-quarter mile away. Fast forward again to 2023 and you can now see Crazy Horse’s completed left land. Today there are tours to the top of the arm and up to the 88-foot-tall head for $125 plus the $15 entrance fee. We felt that not enough progress made in 22 years to justify another visit. Besides, the view from the visitor’s center is only marginally better than the free one from the roadside.
2001 View From the Visitor's Center
2023 View From the Highway
Jewel Cave National Monument & Wind Cave National Park – Both Jewel and Wind caves can only be reached by elevator with a guided tour. Unfortunately, the elevator to Wind Cave was broken and not expected to be working again for three to four weeks after we left. Jewel Cave is ranked the fifth largest cave system in the world. But since the cave system has not yet been explored completely, geologists estimate Jewel Cave could actually be the world’s largest. Three tours are offered here. We opted for the hour-and-a-half Scenic Tour that started out in a huge chamber decorated with calcite crystals. We then began our up and down (mostly down) trek through narrow tunnels and impressive chambers containing boxwork, cave popcorn, flowstone, stalactites, stalagmites, draperies, and a long ribbon drapery formation called cave bacon. After hiking a half mile loop and 734 steps, we arrived at a chamber below the one we started in to catch the elevator back to the surface. The tour was both educational and loads of fun.
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The Mammoth Site (Hot Springs) – The Mammoth Site is an active paleontological excavation site that encloses a prehistoric sinkhole containing the remains of 61 mammoths. The sinkhole formed when a limestone cavern collapsed and warm water from hot pools seeped in creating a steep sided pond. Enticed by the warm water and pond vegetation, mammoths entered the pond to forage and would sometimes lose their footings, slip into the deep end, and drown. The site is completely enclosed, with a promenade and observation platforms circling the sinkhole. Along this walkway there are nine stops where you can download an audio tour and view the points of interest clearly labeled with flags and arrows.
Moccasin Springs (Hot Springs) – The native Americans that first lived here called the area Warm Springs, but the original settlers thought that the name Hot Springs was sexier. However, these natural springs never get warmer than 87 degrees. There are two natural spring spas in this interesting town. The largest and most popular is the family oriented Evans Plunge at $14 for an all-day pass. This spa has an enclosed pool that is constantly being refilled by the natural springs along with slides and loads of fun for the kiddies. We chose instead Moccasin Springs, an adult only facility at $27 for a three-hour pass. It was an very quiet relaxing experiences. The spa consists of two natural heated pools and four pools that are artificially heated to hotter and hotter temperatures all within the beautifully reclaimed stone remains of the original bathhouse built in 1881.
Needles Highway (Custer State Park) – This is a very winding 14-mile highway that can take over an hour to drive. The road's name comes from the needle-like granite formations you pass which seem to pierce the skyline. Taking this road, we needed to thread our way through two tunnels that were only nine feet wide and ten feet high.
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Iron Mountain Road (Custer State Park) – This 17-mile roadway was flat at its southern end and very winding at its northern end with a couple of “pigtail bridges” that looped over themselves. The highlight of the drive was a herd of buffalo that were minding their own business blocking the roadway. We were warned that it could take up to an hour to get past them. We were lucky and were only delayed for around twenty minutes. It was a thrilling experience for us to see so many of these gigantic animals just a couple of feet from our car.
Wilderness Loop Road (Custer State Park) – This 18-mile roadway took us through rolling hills of open prairie land spotted with ponderosa pine. The main attraction here are the herds of buffalo, white-tailed deer, mule deer, big horn sheep and elk. The best times to view these animals are just after sunrise or just before sunset. Unfortunately, we were there midday, and only saw a herd of mountain goats. The Byson Center which sits at the southern end of the roadway, is a very informative one room museum worth the stop.
Little Devils Tower Trail (Custer State Park – 3.8 miles – 750 feet elevation) – The trail was a gradually rising smooth path until we reached the base of the upper portion of the mountain. From there on we had to scramble over boulders and through crevices in the rocks to reach the top for fabulous views of many of the park’s needles rock formations including the Cathedral Spires. Along the way we were blessed with an abundance of raspberry bushes that were everywhere along the trail. Sandra and I are big time grazers and stopped almost every five minutes to partake in the bounty.
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Cathedral Spires Trail (Custer State Park – 0.7 miles) – Considered to be one of the most impressive rock formations in the Black Hills, Cathedral Spires can be reached from two directions. A trail from the south originating at the Needles Highway, or the much shorter trail that we took from the west that intersects with the Little Devils Tower Trail. It was truly inspiring standing near the base of the spires and looking up.
Sunday Gulch Trail (Custer State Park – 3.9 miles – 800 feet elevation) – With its incredible variety in terrain and rock formations, Sunday Gulch is one of the most amazing trails we have ever experienced. We started the trail descending quickly into the gulch over large boulders. Normally, I would be too scared to attempt such a trail, but two sets of attached handrails and several sets of stairs made our way more manageable, and just marginally scary. When I was not paying attention to where to put my feet, I stood in awe of the soaring, moss-covered granite walls surrounding us. At the bottom of the gulch, we followed a green mossy valley floor where we crossed and re-crossed a lovely stream several times. After this we began our accent climbing to the rim of the valley where we followed the trail back to where we began. This portion of the trail provided great views of the rock formations off in the distance on the other side of the valley.
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Sylvan Lake Shore Trail (Custer State Park – 1.1 miles – 80 feet elevation) – Sylvan Lake is by far the most popular area in the park. Here you can find picnic areas, a restaurant/convenient store, a lodge, a small beach, kayak rentals, and plenty of rock formations to climb upon. The trail along the lake’s western and eastern shores is very smooth and flat. The north shore is lined with towering rock formations that we needed to climb up and circumvent to complete the loop.
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Grace Coolidge Trail (Custer State Park – 5.8 miles – 400 feet elevation) – In 1927 President Coolidge and his wife settled into the area and made the park their “Summer Whitehouse”. So, I guess that is why they named the creek and trail after her. This is an easy trail that crosses the creek several times on very narrow foot bridges, passing interesting rock formations and ponds while slowly climbing to Center Lake. We were a little rushed that day, and only had time to complete half of the trail.
Badlands National Park
Overview – The main attraction in this park is the 40-mile-long Badlands Loop State Scenic Byway (which is more of a “U” shape) just a few miles south of I-90. This beautiful roadway snakes and crawls between ancient rock formations, cliffs, and colorful spires. Along the way there are 15 overlooks, each one more incredible than the last, and eight trailheads to explore.
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Notch Trail (1.5 miles – 130 feet elevation) – The hike begins with a walk through a scenic canyon, followed by a climb up a marginally scary wooden ladder, a brief walk along a cliff trail, traversing a lunar landscape, and finally ending in a notch in the rock with a beautiful view of the Cliff Shelf Trail below and the Badlands beyond it. And yes, on our way back, we needed to go down the ladder to complete this thrilling hike.
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Cliff Shelf Trail (0.5 miles – 70 feet elevation) – This easy trail goes through one of the few green areas of the Badlands providing us with our only bit of shade for the day. The juniper forest stood in stark contrast to the bare landscape representing most of the park. Over 50 plant species flourish in this small oasis and nearly 100 bird species have been identified visiting here.
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I-90 Corridor
Wall Drug (Wall) – In the 1930s, to get extra business, Wall Drug, a failing pharmacy, started offering free ice water to travelers driving by. As more and more people started to pass through their doors, they began to morph into the cowboy themed mall they are famous for today. But Wall Drug is more than just a place to purchase cowboy paraphernalia. It is considered by many to be one of America’s most bizarre and well-loved tourist traps. Wall Drug is the king of kitsch and worth a short visit on a long cross-country drive, whether kitsch is your thing or not.
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Akta Lakota Museum (Chamberlain) – This museum was established on the grounds of the St Joseph’s Indian Boarding School “to honor and preserve the rich culture of the Lakota people”. The existence of this museum baffles me since church run Indian schools had a history of stripping their students of their birth names and traditional clothing, punishing them for speaking their language, and practicing their customs, and cutting their long hair which in many indigenous cultures marks the death of one’s identity. The outcome of this practice was adults who found it difficult functioning in both the outside world as well as their traditional one. It would appear that this particular school built this well curated museum to make amends for their past deeds.
Corn Palace (Mitchell) – Since 1921 this local arena has been covered with murals made from different types of colored corn. Nearly 300,000 ears of corn are hammered to the outside of the building yearly to create a tableau of murals based on a new theme. For 2023 the theme was the circus. Inside the arena you can see photos of how the facade has been decorated over the years. Complete the visit with a stroll along historical Main Street and be transported back in time.
Prehistoric Indian Village (Mitchell) – Here you can visit an enclosed structure covering the active archaeological dig site of a one-thousand-year-old village, and a small museum housing many of the artifacts found at the site and a reconstructed lodge. The site contains the remains of 70 to 80 earthen lodges. It is estimated that the village was occupied for a hundred years, and at its peak reached a maximum population of around 200. From the archaeological findings it is assumed that these people were skilled farmers, growing crops such as corn, beans, squashes, sunflowers, tobacco and amaranth. Students from universities in England and South Dakota come here every summer to continue archaeological work on the site.
Falls Park (Sioux Falls) – The city’s namesake are these impressive falls located just minuets from downtown. Every second, on average, 7,400 gallons of water pass through this 100 feet tall formation. The park provides many observation points to admire these falls.
Sculpture Walk (Sioux Falls) – There is over one million dollars of public art on exhibit throughout the Downtown. Each year this juried outdoor exhibition, considered one of the largest in the country, features 55-56 new sculptures by world-class artists. The pieces are available for lease or purchase, and the "best in show" is purchased by the city to be part of its permanent collection.
The part of this trip that we loved the most was hiking through Custer State Park. Being that this is the closest mountain range to Madison, we plan to come back again,